The verdict on 4 newcomers to Atlanta’s dining scene - Parkview on Peachtree
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The verdict on 4 newcomers to Atlanta’s dining scene

The Alden
The Alden
PHOTOGRAPH BY CHIP BERGMANN

The Alden
At first glance, the Alden feels a bit buttoned-up—which goes to show that you shouldn’t be fooled by looks. Located inside a mixed-use development in Chamblee, the restaurant, with its stiff decor and halting service, seems to need a dash of warmth. In the heart of the space, where a bar might otherwise be, is an open kitchen, ringed by seats for diners who choose the chef’s tasting menu. But those seats are too often empty. Chef Jared A. Hucks, an Atlanta native and Bacchanalia alum, left the city for several decades to cook at restaurants around the globe—including the inimitable Noma in Copenhagen and stints in Spain, Thailand, Australia, and Scotland. Given his pedigree and the dining room’s aesthetics, you might expect his food to take itself quite seriously. If so, you’ll be surprised by how playful and straight-up delicious these dishes are. A pappardelle with a deluge of morels, as well as baby spinach, peas, and tarragon, is like eating spring. Then, there’s the rainbow trout. The menu’s description does not prepare you for the uncited sunflower seeds, a seemingly ungainly amount of them caked to the inside of two fillets. You might think the volume of nuttiness would be overkill, but it’s actually perfect—especially with the accompanying rhubarb smear. It’s like a PBJ that grew up but hasn’t abandoned its inner child. What could be more comforting? 5070 Peachtree Boulevard, Chamblee, 678-395-6982

 

See full article:https://www.atlantamagazine.com/dining-news/the-verdict-on-4-newcomers-to-atlantas-dining-scene/